Order these spring-planted bulbs NOW for delivery in APRIL.

ARE DAYLILIES BULBS? Not really, but bulb catalogs in the past offered their thick, fleshy roots, and today many antique daylilies are at risk, so we’ve added them to our Ark. Modern daylilies can be amazing, but older ones blend better into most gardens. They’re not huge or gaudy, and their classic, lily-like forms are full of grace.

TIPS FOR SUCCESS: Daylilies are one of the easiest of all perennials. See what you’ll get: freshly dug, bare-root plants with 2-4 fans (growing points). Plant in full sun to light shade, and learn more here.


With cottage-garden grace and surprising diversity, antique daylilies are waiting to be rediscovered by modern gardeners. Sample their old-fashioned charms with 4 of our favorites, all different, labeled, and great for your area. (Several possibilities are pictured.) For zones 4a-8b(9aWC). Daylily care.

For more of each variety, order additional samplers.

BLACK FALCON, 1941        It’s Back!
Back in the day, ‘Black Falcon’ was celebrated as the darkest daylily of all, and 70 years later it’s still a stunner. A glowing center of molten gold makes its rippled, mahogany-red petals seem even darker. It’s free-flowering, easy-growing, mid-summer blooming, 32-36”, deciduous, for zones 4a-8b(10aWC), from Missouri. Chart and care.
Limit 10, please.
CRIMSON PIRATE, 1951        It’s Back!
With up to 30 buds per stem, this Nebraska-bred classic will brighten your mid-summer garden with six weeks of star-like, jewel-toned blossoms that are as graceful as wildflowers. Named for a hit movie that later inspired Pirates of the Caribbean, it’s another masterpiece from the great Henry Sass whose family introduced so many enduringly popular iris and peonies. 30-32”, mid-season, deciduous, zones 4a-8b(10aWC), from Ann Arbor. Chart and care.
EVELYN CLAAR, 1949        It’s Back!
One of the best of the ground-breaking mid-century pinks, ‘Evelyn’ is a warm, peachy-pink highlighted by a glowing, golden throat. Free-flowering and vigorous, it was bred by University of Chicago botany professor Ezra Kraus – who clearly knew what he was doing. 24-30”, early-mid, deciduous, zones 4a-8b(10aWC), from Missouri. Chart and care.
GOLD DUST, 1905        It’s Back!
Exceptionally early-blooming, this cheery little daylily opens its fragrant, cinnamon-shaded flowers just as spring is turning into summer (and when it’s happy, it often reblooms). It’s also one of the oldest daylilies, by the very first person to breed them, English schoolteacher George Yeld, who crossed the classic lemon lily with the Japanese H. dumortieri to get this enduring charmer. Just 24-26”, very early, deciduous, zones 5a-8b(10bWC), from our Ann Arbor micro-farms. Last offered in 2016. We offer a rotating selection of daylilies. Chart and care.
KINDLY LIGHT, 1949        
“Did you see that?” everyone asked when this unusual daylily first bloomed here in our trial garden. With its long, thin, curling petals, a clump in bloom may remind you of fireworks bursting in the summer sky. A landmark daylily, it was the first “spider,” a form that’s now in vogue after decades of scorn. 24-36”, mid-summer blooming, deciduous, zones 4a-8b(10bWC), from Missouri. Chart and care.
Hemerocallis lilioasphodelus, LEMON LILY, 1570        
True stock! Many daylilies are mistakenly called lemon lily, but ours is the true original. For centuries, this and the single orange “ditch lily” were the only daylilies common in gardens. Always the more prized, lemon lily is smaller, much more graceful, and early blooming, with a sweet scent that led one botanist in 1733 to call it the “Yellow Tuberose.” Best in cool climates and moist soils. We ship single fans of this great rarity. Formerly H. flava, 30-34”, deciduous, zones 3a-7a(9aWC), from Vermont and Ann Arbor. Chart and care.
Limit 10, please.
MELONEE, 1959        It’s Back!
With a name that’s pure 1950s, this luscious daylily looks like a cool, refreshing cantaloupe and ice cream smoothie. It was bred by Orville Fay of Illinois whose day job was working as a chemist in a candy factory. Just 26” tall, mid-summer blooming, deciduous, zones 5a-8b(10aWC), from Missouri. Chart and care.
MIKADO, 1929        It’s Back!
This striking daylily was one of Stout’s first and favorite introductions. Over the years its bold mango-and-mahogany coloring and graceful star-like form have won it many fans, including the great Elizabeth Lawrence who praised it as one of her “15 Best.” Vigorously multiplying and floriferous, it often reblooms in the fall in warm areas. 30-36”, early-mid season, semi-evergreen, zones 4a-8a(10aWC), from our Ann Arbor micro-farms. Chart and care.
Limit 5, please.

DAYLILY ARCHIVES — For customer tips and raves, history, news, and more, see our Daylillies Newsletter Archives.

PLANTING & CARE — Plant these bare-root perennials as soon as possible in the spring. They’re eager to grow, can take light frost, and need water and sunlight to stay healthy. If necessary, store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for a few days or “heel in” briefly in moist sand or soil in a shady spot.

Daylilies like lots of sun but most bloom well in light shade, too, and often prefer it in the South. Loamy, well-drained soil suits them best, but they’re adaptable and should do fine in any soil that’s not too wet or dry.

Plant 18-24 inches apart (to leave growing room for future years) with the crown (where the foliage meets the roots) no more than one inch below the soil surface. Dig a hole big enough to fit the roots comfortably, mound soil in the center, set the plant on top, and spread the roots out down the sides of the mound. Fill in and firm soil around roots, making sure the crown ends up no more than one inch deep. Water well.

Water regularly, especially the first year and from spring till flowering in future years. First-year plants usually bloom sparsely — if at all — concentrating instead on developing a strong root system. Deadhead (remove) spent blooms daily for a neater look and, to increase bloom the following year, remove any seedpods that may form.

After bloom, normal senescence (aging) may cause foliage to subside, yellow, or turn brown at the tips. If this bothers you, feel free to trim it a bit or even cut the foliage to the ground completely — though not the first year! With good care, fresh new foliage will emerge.

Daylilies are hardy perennials and winter protection is rarely needed. In spring, remove dead foliage, fertilize if indicated by a soil test, and resume watering.

For more information, including tips on the few pests and diseases that occasionally trouble daylilies, see the “Frequently Asked Questions” section of the excellent American Hemerocallis Society website.

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